How to Make & Use a Potato Tower

Early this spring, Sara, a fellow gardener and reader, left a note on The Full Circle Gardener Facebook page, asking what I knew about growing potatoes in a barrel.  I had honestly never looked into the idea, but in the process of looking for information for her I became intrigued!  A month or so later I started seeing a variety potato tower ideas on Pinterest.  The idea of getting an abundance of potatoes (as much as 100lb according to some sources) in a small area had me hooked and with the pile of salvaged redwood decking we'd used to make our new strawberry bed still laying around, I decided to see what we could do about making a potato tower.

I found four deck railing spindles for the up rights and several pieces of 2x4 decking that my husband cut into 2ft and 2.5ft lengths.  We screwed the bottom 3 layers onto the uprights, set the structure in our chosen location, and covered the grass with newspaper to keep it from growing up into the tower.  I then added compost for the planting medium and placed eight sections (should have 2-3 eyes per section) of seed potatoes in the soil, covered them and watered.  (You can plant four seed potatoes per square foot according to the square foot gardening method.)  The extra boards we cut for the sides were set aside to be added later as needed.

It has been about a month since I planted the potatoes and most of the plants are about 12 inches tall. Last week I decided it was time and added the first layer of additional soil.  When adding additional soil be sure to cover only 1/3 of the plant at a time so that it maintains enough leaf area to feed the potato tubers you are wanting to produce below ground.  The portions of the stem that become buried will root and potentially produce more potatoes.  Continue to add side boards and soil all summer.  Fresh 'new potatoes' should be ready for harvest about 10 weeks after planting.  For more information on the final harvest see my Plant of the Week post on potatoes.

Here's to trying a new gardening method this summer. :)  Have you grown potatoes in a bucket or tower before?  I'd love to hear about your experience.

Happy Gardening! :)

Plant of the Week: Broccoli

Broccoli (Brassica oleracea) in flower (photo credit)

The Brassicaceae family (common names: cabbage or mustard family) holds many common garden plants like cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi, and kale.  Interestingly, all of those plants were developed from one wild species according to my botany professor (years ago now ;)).  A different characteristic was selected to produce each unique plant accounting for their very different looks and characteristics.  In gardening circles these plants are often referred to as coles (as in 'cole'slaw).  This week we will look at broccoli.

It is the large immature flower head of the broccoli that we harvest as a vegetable.  Broccoli flowers develop on branching stems giving it the look of a green tree.  It is this tree-like appearence that will entice some young ones to give it a try.  (Have you ever fed your young ones a raw 'broccoli tree'?)  For those of us in the northern parts of the country, broccoli is a wonderful addition to our diet, especially in the winter, as it is high in both vitamin D and A.

Broccoli tolerates cool soil and air temperatures and so can usually be planted a couple of weeks before the average last spring frost, and is among the first vegetables that can be started indoors in preparation for spring planting.  See my spring Seed Starting & Planting guide to help you know when you can first start cabbage or other plants in your area. Not only do broccoli tolerate cool early spring temperatures, but most varieties do not like hot summer temperatures (starting between 75F & 80F and up) and will bolt (flower).  If you anticipate that your plants will be exposed to warm temperatures plan ahead and plant bolt resistant varieties. 

Plant broccoli in full sun and well drained soil.  If you plan a fall harvest and have a long enough growing season, you can directly plant seeds in the soil, or started broccoli can be hardened and transplanted into the garden 2-3 weeks before the last spring frost.  Individual plants should be placed about 18inches apart or one per square for a square foot garden.  Be sure that the plants receive the equivalent of 1 inch of water per week for the best production.  Harvest when the heads are full and compact.  If the flowers begin to show signs of opening, harvest immediately.  Side shoots will develop smaller heads after the primary head has been harvested, extending the season for several more weeks.

Happy Gardening! :)